Frequently Asked Questions

Closed cell spray foam acts as its own vapor barrier. At just two inches thick, it achieves a permeability rating of 1 perm or lower (the industry standard for vapor barrier classification). This means no additional plastic sheeting or vapor barrier is needed, saving you time and materials during installation.

You should not be in the home during the installation or for a period after. Talk to your spray foam estimator about how long you should stay out.

During installation, gases are present as the foam is applied, which is why our installers wear appropriate protective equipment and homeowners are asked to stay out of the home until it has had time to properly ventilate. Once cured, closed cell spray foam traps gases within its cell structure, meaning there is no ongoing off-gassing after the process is complete.

Yes. Your attic is essentially the lid of your home, and sealing it properly has a huge impact on energy efficiency. Spray foam is an excellent option for attic spaces, particularly in older homes that lack an adequate vapor barrier or sufficient R-value.

That said, attic applications require a conversation before we get started. Depending on your roof structure and ventilation setup, spray foam may turn your attic into what’s called a “hot box” (a sealed, unvented space that becomes part of your home’s conditioned envelope). This approach works very well in the right situations, but isn’t always the best fit for every home. Traditional batt insulation with a poly vapor barrier may be the more appropriate solution.

We’re happy to walk through the details with you and recommend the right approach for your specific attic.

It depends on the area. Fiberglass is an excellent, cost-effective solution for standard wall cavities, while spray foam is often preferred for sealing rim joists, crawl spaces, and areas prone to air leakage.

Yes. By sealing air leaks and preventing warm air from reaching your roof deck, spray foam is one of the most effective ways to stop ice dams in Minnesota homes.

We typically prepare our free estimates within a few business days, but we may need see the project in person to assist with an accurate quote. Call us at (763) 444-0405 or submit the form here on our site and our local office team will get you a competitive estimate ASAP.

In Minnesota’s extreme climate, a 6-mil poly vapor barrier is essential for two main reasons. First, it stops warm, moist indoor air from transferring into your cold wall cavities during the winter, which prevents devastating hidden condensation and mold growth. Second, a seamlessly taped vapor barrier physically traps the air inside the fiberglass or rock wool fibers, allowing the insulation to perform at its maximum thermal capacity.

Based near Isanti, Brian’s Insulation proudly serves the entire East Central Minnesota region. Our primary service areas include Isanti, Cambridge, Braham, St. Francis, East Bethel, North Branch, Ham Lake, and the broader Seven-County Metro Area, but we’re willing to travel to make sure you have a 5-star insulation experience. Check out our Service Area page for more info or give us a call!

Both are excellent choices for standard wall cavities. Fiberglass is the most common and cost-effective material used to meet minimum building code requirements in new construction. Rock wool (mineral wool) is a denser alternative that provides superior acoustic dampening—making it ideal for soundproofing interior walls—along with exceptional fire resistance and moisture repellency.

We typically prepare our free estimates within a few business days, but we may need see the project in person to assist with an accurate quote. Call us at (763) 444-0405 or submit the form here on our site and our local office team will get you a competitive estimate ASAP.

To meet modern Minnesota energy codes (typically R-49 to R-60), you generally need a substantial layer of insulation. Depending on the specific type and brand of loose-fill material you currently have, minimum recommendations often start at 11 to 15 inches, though hitting an R-60 rating usually requires 18 to 20+ inches of blown-in fiberglass or cellulose. Our inspection will determine exactly what you need.

Generally, no. Modern blown-in fiberglass and cellulose are safe and non-toxic. Our professional crews take immense care to prep your home, lay down drop cloths, and contain the work area around your attic access point so your daily life is minimally disrupted.

It depends on where the light is coming from! If you see daylight around the extreme lower edges of your roofline (the eaves and soffit venting), this is usually a good sign (it means your soffit vents are open and allowing proper incoming airflow). However, if you see daylight coming directly through the roof deck or around a chimney chase, it indicates a structural leak that needs immediate sealing.

Absolutely. A lack of ventilation is one of the most common issues we fix. During your insulation upgrade, our team can install durable air chutes (baffles) to clear soffit pathways, and we can recommend or install additional exhaust vents to ensure proper air circulation and protect your roof deck.

We typically prepare our free estimates within a few business days, but we may need see the project in person to assist with an accurate quote. Call us at (763) 444-0405 or submit the form here on our site and our local office team will get you a competitive estimate ASAP.